A year ago, Phoebe Philo told The New York Times that she made clothes far removed from sexualization but undeniably feminine. Since then, dozens of major collections from many designers have followed, which we will remember as examples of the resurgence of the minimalism typical of 90s fashion. Today, Alex Rivière at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid presents a collection that serves as both a wardrobe staple and a wildcard for feeling unstoppable.
It was in 2023 that Rivière took the step of launching her own studio, a warm, ethereal, and peaceful place where, if you’re looking for simplicity, you’ll find it without needing to sacrifice any other adjective.
Her way of working always gravitates toward detail, perfection, and responsibility in production, something that, with the workshop located in Costa Brava, is not difficult to achieve. A way of making fashion and functional garments, pieces designed to be enjoyed across several generations.
Exquisite, always
On the runway, black silk and lace dresses appeared alongside shirts and sweatshirts. Black, white, and an elegant animal print, a true Rivière classic. Each garment made its way down the runway wrapped in an air of exquisiteness that, I imagine, must have been an absolute pleasure, especially for the house’s buyers.
Depth Is Never Loud
The feeling is that, although this type of collection and brand is already fairly well accepted and can be found at all the major fashion weeks on the calendar, in Madrid the reception is still somewhat skeptical. Certain doubts can be heard among the bustling audience when the music stops, and there are even those who say they expected something different.
My personal reflection is impetuous: if you were expecting more, the problem might lie in how you were looking. Maybe you didn’t notice the pattern of the lace, perhaps the way you neither saw nor perceived any interior seam, or the way a print aligned masterfully with the full pattern of a piece, or the layering of fabrics to create subtle depth, or perhaps the weight of a train, the way a waistband adjusted effortlessly to the model’s waist, or the size of the cuff on a basic white T-shirt.
When you don’t see depth at first glance, it’s time to do the active exercise of looking deeper, something that, like almost every active exercise today, feels lazy.
Editor, Fashion & Culture
Lucía holds a master’s degree in communication management, specializing in fashion and luxury marketing. With a profound appreciation for art, fashion, and history, she has discovered her vocation in fashion journalism. Currently, she dedicates her efforts to this field in her early twenties, residing in the dynamic city of Madrid.