Antonio Reverses the Blazer
Antonio’s industrial trade background informed the collection’s presentation at Barcelona’s historic Marina Vela Port Vell. With a total of 45 looks shown, each explored color, shape, texture, and fit differently, further pushing the envelope of whether the show was highlighting the garments displayed or the people wearing them. Looks 18 & 43 challenged the norms of tailoring entirely, with plays on how a traditional blazer can contour the body differently, highlight the technique required to achieve a different shape, and provide a timeless look from a different lens, whether worn inside-out or half off the body entirely.
The relationship between clothes and wearer establishes the idea of this mutual reliance to coexist, which sews the seams of how Antonio views society today. He asks, “What happens when the layers that once protected us begin to fall away?” Well, the answer was draped into each look, with most featuring irreplicable manipulations that truly express the differences we all share in this world we collectively inhabit.
No rules allowed in fashion
You can feel the desire to create without patterns. Blurring the divisions between seasonality through color and fabrics, from Super 140 Wools to sheer Polyester and Viscose, Antonio Acuario successfully unlearned all the rules of structure to create a show that makes you feel something you’ve never felt before. Viewers longed for something familiar with each passing look, only to be met with the universality of androgyny in design. To blend trends is to be one, and Antonio Contreras created a trend while only looking to veer as far away from any as possible. I ask: what are the parameters for an artist whose artistry takes fluid form?
This collection runs a race no other brand showing at 080 Barcelona dared to run. For this is only Momento IV of Contreras’ continuous work; his brand continues to create different meaning with each passing look.
Getting Dressed as an Act of Revealing
The emotion of the show was largely controlled by the interplay of music and the garments. Scored live by Chilean-born electro-spiritual artist Domingae, the soundtrack fused the shared frequencies of fashion and music effortlessly. Domingae was also the first model to walk the runway, dressed in an asymmetrical lace gown, gathered at the left knee, further embodying the desired ethereal feel of the show in a look that told you so much about her, yet so little at the same time. As the original sounds captivated the audience, Antonio’s goal of making “getting dressed become an act of revealing rather than hiding” was successfully met.
All viewers were required to rid themselves of any expectations or notions and truly experience the present to even catch a glimpse of the nuances hidden in design by Antonio Acuario. For fashion will continue to challenge the depths in which we experience one another, this collection reminds us that maybe all that’s gone unsaid will one day be spoken for through the vulnerability shared between designers and those whose qualities are reflected in their designs.
The Collection
Zachary A. Middleton, known professionally as Zakari, is a Miami-based fashion designer and emerging fashion writer. His work explores the relationship between clothing, identity, craftsmanship, and culture. Through research-led design, thoughtful construction, and expressive storytelling, he approaches fashion as both a creative passion and a platform to communicate personal influence worldwide.