Runway

Under the Cherry Blossoms: Pedro del Hierro’s SS27

Pedro del Hierro opened Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid with "Hanami," a Spring/Summer 2027 collection inspired by the Japanese tradition of cherry blossom viewing. Staged inside a greenhouse with filtered light, the show wove fluid silhouettes, jacquard fabrics, and kimono influences into the house's signature tailoring, balancing Asian references with a distinctly Spanish sensibility.

By Alfonso de Hoyos-Acosta

Updated 03:39 pm EDT, Sep 15, 2026

Published 03:36 pm EDT, Sep 15, 2026

Photo Courtesy: © IFEMA MADRID

Runway

Under the Cherry Blossoms: Pedro del Hierro’s SS27

By Alfonso de Hoyos-Acosta

Updated 03:39 pm EDT, September 15, 2026

Published 03:36 pm EDT, September 15, 2026

Photo Courtesy: © IFEMA MADRID

Updated 03:39 pm EDT, September 15, 2026

Published 03:36 pm EDT, September 15, 2026

Photo Courtesy: © IFEMA MADRID

A Madrid Legacy

Pedro del Hierro is one of Spain’s historic fashion houses, founded in 1974 by the designer Pedro del Hierro Fernández, who was born in Madrid. The brand is well known for refined tailoring, architectural silhouettes, and an elegant approach to its ready‑to‑wear. In 1989, the brand became an exclusive label of Cortefiel, and in 1992 it became fully owned by the Grupo Tendam.

Nacho Aguayo and Álex Miralles currently lead Pedro del Hierro as co‑creative directors. Both designers are known for blending refined traditional tailoring with cultural references from around the world. One particular favorite influence is Asian design, which brings fluid silhouettes, engineered fabrics, and architectural construction.

Blossoms in Bloom: The Women's Line

Pedro del Hierro opened the 84th edition of Mercedes‑Benz Fashion Week Madrid with its SS27 collection, titled “Hanami.” The new collection is inspired by the elegant Japanese tradition of contemplating cherry blossoms. One can imagine observers sitting on blankets in Ueno Park in Tokyo, observing the massive canopy of over 1,000 trees as the gorgeous blossoms open up in tranquility. In this case, the brand is using “Hanami” as a metaphor for ephemeral beauty, disconnecting from our digital obsessions, and viewing time as a gift. The venue for this presentation was a greenhouse with multiple climates and filtered light, which reinforced the collection’s Japanese influence.

The women’s outfits in this collection had fluid silhouettes with volumes, draping, knots, and loose cuts. The fabrics used were varied, with jacquard fabrics, shiny textiles, and fajín belts (wide, structured sash used to wrap and cinch the waist) referencing Asian dress codes. Sprinkled throughout the collection were modern items such as cargo pants, mini skirts, and athletic pieces. One interesting detail was the mantón de Manila reinterpreted as a contemporary garment. The mantón is a square, embroidered silk shawl decorated with intricate designs and long, dramatic fringe typically worn by flamenco dancers.

The collection’s outfits for men also had subtle Asian influences through crossed closures, Mao collars, and Tang‑style jackets. The materials used for these outfits were linen, rayon, washed silk, and open‑knit tricot, creating texture and artisanal softness. I especially enjoyed the brand reimagining the kimono structure, especially in the formal eveningwear.

Look of the Show: Elegant Chocolate Plum and Butter Yellow

One chocolate-brown women’s outfit stood out as a great representation of “Hanami.” It was a combination of a long jacquard trench coat in deep chocolate plum, with a sheer organza camisole in burgundy and fluid chiffon palazzo trousers in wine red. The coat featured a tone‑on‑tone floral motif woven into the fabric. It had drop shoulders, rolled sleeves, and a fluid drape. The camisole was not only a sensual touch, but it also allowed the underlayer to interact visually with a wide obi-style sash in powder blue. The palazzo trousers had really lovely volume and pleating that allowed the model to move gracefully on the runway.

The gorgeous men’s clothes can be exemplified by an outfit that combines a butter yellow overcoat with kimono influences, a multilayered shirt peeking through the coat’s opening, and playful tailored shorts in the same butter yellow fabric. The overcoat has an elegant crossed-front closure secured by a single asymmetric button at the collar. The coat had a unique extended lapel and vented back panel. The shirt featured a grey chambray base with a striped beige‑and‑ochre overlay. The shorts were simple, elegant, and brilliant. Altogether, it reinforced how the brand stays modern while referencing its elegant traditional past.

Pedro del Hierro is reclaiming its place as one of Spain’s luxury houses, balancing couture heritage with contemporary references. AVESSA loves the brand’s tradition but also adores the new injections of global culture that elevate it to fashion relevance.

Alfonso de Hoyos-Acosta

Senior Fashion & Culture Editor

Recovering from an obsession with Italian-designed menswear, Alfonso decided to take a deeper look into women’s fashion to see how our relationship among clothing, society, and business has changed. Educated as an economist with an MBA, he travels between Chicago, Miami, and Mexico on a search to see what happens next to fashion.

Tags: Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid September 2026, Spring/Summer Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid

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