Runway

Acromatyx Expands Without Losing Itself

For Acromatyx founders Franx De Cristal and Xavi García, Spring/Summer 2027 was about color. Presented at Nebrija University Campus in Madrid, #UNTITLED revisited the brand's own archive through new materials, proportions and a palette that finally broke from its signature black, adding white, pastel pink, violet, lime green and deep blue while black stayed the anchor. Proof that you can experiment without losing yourself.

By Majo Velásquez

Updated 04:25 pm EDT, Sep 16, 2026

Published 04:17 pm EDT, Sep 16, 2026

Photo Courtesy: © IFEMA MADRID

Runway

Acromatyx Expands Without Losing Itself

By Majo Velásquez

Updated 04:25 pm EDT, September 16, 2026

Published 04:17 pm EDT, September 16, 2026

Photo Courtesy: © IFEMA MADRID

Updated 04:25 pm EDT, September 16, 2026

Published 04:17 pm EDT, September 16, 2026

Photo Courtesy: © IFEMA MADRID

What happens when you push yourself out of your comfort zone? If you ask Franx De Cristal and Xavi García, the answer is: bringing color to the equation.

Acromatyx was founded by two creatives whose backgrounds were rooted in hairdressing, styling, art direction and creative direction before fashion became their main language. Before Acromatyx, the duo worked under 44Studio, which grew out of their Madrid salon and store, Salon44. After the pandemic, they closed that chapter and built Acromatyx into something their own.

And if there is one word I would use to describe Acromatyx, it is contradiction.

Proportion Over Gender

Black. Deconstruction. Oversized silhouettes. Architecture. Texture. Gender fluidity. Their clothes constantly play with opposites: think slim and oversized, soft and hard, delicate and strong, structured and fluid. Their pieces are not divided into menswear or womenswear, but designed around the body and proportion, creating silhouettes that resist communicating a specific gender.

Black has long been one of their strongest signatures. But for the designers, it is not simply an aesthetic choice. Xavi has explained that black is deeply connected to Spanish culture, which makes the color feel less like a trend and more like part of their identity.

And then came Spring/Summer 2027.

Same Codes, New Eyes

Presented at the Nebrija University Campus in Madrid, #UNTITLED, Acromatyx’s latest collection looks back at its own archive, revisiting previous work and reconstructing it through new materials, proportions, and colors. It asks a simple but powerful question: what happens when you take something you already know and change the way you see it?

The body becomes the starting point, with proportions acting as the collection’s strongest expressive tool. Slim, fluid and architectural silhouettes move alongside one another, while materials create another layer of tension: organza, fluid nylon, satin, cotton and cool wool bring together innovation and tradition.

But the biggest surprise was color.

Finding the Center by Leaving It

For a brand so deeply associated with black, seeing white, pastel pink, violet, vibrant lime green and deep blue felt like watching Acromatyx step outside its comfort zone. And yet, black remained the anchor. To me, it felt less like abandoning their identity and more like testing how far it could stretch without losing its center.

Transparency added another dimension. Through organza and sheer materials, the collection felt somehow vulnerable and delicate without becoming weak.

Even while experimenting, Acromatyx remained deeply Spanish.Their commitment to Spanish and Portuguese production, local artisans and traditional craftsmanship keeps their roots visible.

And perhaps that is what Acromatyx taught us today: you can experiment, evolve and step outside your comfort zone without losing yourself. Sometimes, discovering how far you can go is exactly how you find your center.

But the biggest surprise was color.

The Collection

Majo Velásquez

Associate Fashion Editor

Fashion student and writer Maria Jose is on a mission to reveal the stories behind the clothes we wear. Combining her love for literature, research, and storytelling, she uses fashion as her primary lens to explore the industry. For her, writing means taking something seemingly distant and making it feel personal, meaningful, and alive.

Tags: Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid September 2026, Spring/Summer Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid

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