Minimalism is often mistaken for simplicity, but in Ángel Schlesser’s hands, it transforms into an intricate dialogue between tradition and innovation. Autopsia, the new Angel Schlesser Fall Winter collection unveiled at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid, reaffirmed the brand’s legacy where architectural precision meets the fluidity of modern sophistication.
Schlesser’s approach has always been rooted in a refined aesthetic, but this season, creative director Alfonso Pérez took the brand’s signature clean lines and elevated them with an avant-garde sensitivity. The result? A masterful balance of structure and movement, restraint and exuberance. The collection spoke in whispers rather than shouts, yet each look resonated with power, presence, and purpose.
Angel Schlesser 'Autopsia' collection during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid - February 2025
At the heart of the collection was an exploration of volume and silhouette. Throughout it, Schlesser played with the notion of enclosure and release: cocooning shapes contrasted with subtle cutouts, and fluid drapery softened the rigidity of sharp tailoring.
Craftmanship as a Language
One of the most striking ensembles was a sculpted camel-toned coatdress that featured folds reminiscent of origami, wrapping around the body with an almost meditative precision. This was a clear statement: craftsmanship takes center stage, and tailoring is not just a technique but a language.
Angel Schlesser 'Autopsia' collection during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid - February 2025
Fabric choice was another triumph. The tactile richness of the materials elevated the minimalist aesthetic, proving that restraint can be as opulent as excess. Brushed wools, structured crepes, and luminous metallics created an interplay of matte and shine, soft and hard. An embossed, bronze-toned gown was a testament to the house’s textile mastery, where craftsmanship and innovation converged to create a garment that felt both contemporary and timeless.
Autopsia’s textural richness was also evident in its approach to layering. A striking ombré wool cape paired with a tiered, structured skirt created a hypnotic effect, proving that even in a muted palette, depth and dynamism can be achieved through fabric manipulation.
Angel Schlesser 'Autopsia' collection during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid - February 2025
A Palette of Quiet Drama
The color story was deliberate and deeply effective. Schlesser’s staple neutrals provided a foundation of quiet luxury, allowing the silhouettes and textures to take center stage. But it was the unexpected injections of deep red and metallic gold that brought a sense of drama and modernity. The oxblood-hued, double-breasted coat was a standout, its sharp lapels and elongated proportions exuding a quiet confidence.
What made this collection truly remarkable was its ability to exist in two worlds at once: the past and the future. There was a deep reverence for traditional craftsmanship, yet every piece felt distinctly contemporary. The emphasis on clean lines, impeccable tailoring, and a restrained palette made each look wearable without being predictable.
Autopsia was not just a display of garments but an invitation to experience fashion as an art form where every seam, every texture, and every drape tells a story. It was a dissection of fashion into its purest elements: form, function, and feeling, peeling away excess to reveal the essence of elegance. A masterclass in how clothing can be both architectural and emotive, avant-garde yet timeless. In a world where trends fade with the seasons, Ángel Schlesser reminds us that true style is eternal.
The Collection
Fashion Designer and Professor, Mena believes that fashion completely transcends the surface and the most important is how one feels rather than anything else. Fashion is really about how empowered one becomes by it. She channels vibrant flares of vintage fashion and dreams of contemporary twists, inspired by her own life and travels.
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