Fashion

Shah y Mat: Where Turquoise Remembers

Explore AzukarMoreno’s newest collection, "Shah y Mat," a meditative dialogue between Uzbekistan and Spain rooted in a single, powerful color: Turquoise.

Updated 12:55 am EST, November 28, 2025

Published 12:29 am EST, November 28, 2025

Photography: María Novo

Explore AzukarMoreno’s newest collection, "Shah y Mat," a meditative dialogue between Uzbekistan and Spain rooted in a single, powerful color: Turquoise.

Updated 12:55 am EST, November 28, 2025

Published 12:29 am EST, November 28, 2025

Photography: María Novo

The story of Shah y Mat, AzukarMoreno’s newest collection, doesn’t start with a silhouette or a fabric. It starts with a color that once surprised a traveler. In 1403, the Spanish ambassador Rui González de Clavijo reached the court of Amir Temur and paused at the sight of Samarcanda’s domes. That turquoise, sharp, almost unreal, threw him off. 

He had never seen anything like it in Spain, so he borrowed the name of the land, Turquestán, just to explain it. Strange how one color can stay alive for centuries. And somehow, that same blue finds its way into AzukarMoreno Creative Director Kamola Rustamova’s work, connecting the two places she has called home.

AzukarMoreno presents its latest collection "Shah y Mat," with an exclusive editorial shot in Madrid by María Novo.
AzukarMoreno presents its latest collection "Shah y Mat," with an exclusive editorial shot in Madrid by María Novo.

Wins and Losses

Rustamova looks back at Amir Temur to remember something simple: wins and losses often walk together. You can sense that idea in the clothes. The adras silks shift as if they were reacting to the light. The kashta embroidery, done by artisans who know the rhythm of this work by heart, adds a kind of quiet steadiness. None of it feels hurried. Nothing plastic or industrial sneaks in. The pieces give space to time, to patience, to hands that know what they’re doing.

AzukarMoreno presents its latest collection "Shah y Mat," with an exclusive editorial shot in Madrid by María Novo.
AzukarMoreno presents its latest collection "Shah y Mat," with an exclusive editorial shot in Madrid by María Novo.

Some prints trace their roots to Clavijo’s journals. He wrote down everything that startled him: faces, corners, bits of sky. And then there’s the horse, a figure that followed Temur everywhere. It shows up here too, not as a literal image but as a whisper about movement. About pushing forward even when you’re unsure of the path. The woman who wears these clothes doesn’t need to raise her voice. She decides, and that’s enough.

AzukarMoreno presents its latest collection "Shah y Mat," with an exclusive editorial shot in Madrid by María Novo.
AzukarMoreno presents its latest collection "Shah y Mat," with an exclusive editorial shot in Madrid by María Novo.

The last looks return to turquoise, almost like a small reminder. The past doesn’t disappear just because we keep walking. It stays, taps us on the shoulder, and, in a good way, helps us choose the next move.

Chief Content Officer

Fashion Designer and Professor, Mena believes that fashion completely transcends the surface and the most important is how one feels rather than anything else. Fashion is really about how empowered one becomes by it. She channels vibrant flares of vintage fashion and dreams of contemporary twists, inspired by her own life and travels.

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