Runway
Bohemian sartorial aesthetics historically perambulate the edge of excess, often relying on a carefree chaos that is challenging to restrain. However, "Bohemian SoHo" touches that formidably beautiful boundary and pulls back with purposeful restraint.
Updated 01:51 pm EDT, March 28, 2026
Published 09:50 am EDT, March 28, 2026
Photo Courtesy: © IFEMA MADRID
Bohemian sartorial aesthetics historically perambulate the edge of excess, often relying on a carefree chaos that is challenging to restrain. However, "Bohemian SoHo" touches that formidably beautiful boundary and pulls back with purposeful restraint.
Updated 01:51 pm EDT, March 28, 2026
Published 09:50 am EDT, March 28, 2026
Photo Courtesy: © IFEMA MADRID
Bohemian sartorial aesthetics often perambulate the edge of excess everything. This invariably translates into layers that are too undone, too unhinged, and essentially too reliant on the kind of carefree chaos that is challenging to restrain. However, Lola Casademunt by Maite this season seems to have touched that formidably beautiful boundary with the “Bohemian SoHo” collection.
Maite Casademunt’s famously fresh views and entrepreneurial spirit have led the brand to refine the notorious bohemian chaos into something more refined, polished, and undeniably sophisticated, yet eclectic enough to channel NYC’s free aura.
At the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid, Lola Casademunt’s new Fall/Winter collection “Bohemian SoHo” spelled one thing clearly – eclectic inspiration and elevated femininity are no longer a far cry from one another. In fact, the ensemble was a case in point for how the two superimposed concepts can co-exist and deliver symbolic impact.
There was an abundance of flowing silhouettes, intricate quintessential folk prints, and textural layering, all of which were a nod to the true bohemian code of dressing. What made the collection stand out was the noticeable attempt to sharpen the outcome. Observers did not see what an archetypal boho-chic collection would showcase – festival fever and nostalgia. Instead, what they saw was an edited, structured, and at times, restrained version of boho.
The balance was so strikingly established during some moments that it was hard not to look past. Tailored elements like vinyl jackets and blazers, firmly grounded fluid fabrics, and maxi dresses. At the same time, bold prints borrowed from an artistic episode of New York, such as florals, paisleys, vintage geometrics, retro logomania, and the iconic animal print, were offset by cleaner lines and refined silhouettes. These intentional contrasts paved the way for a unique tension that felt modern, and not costume-like.
Eclecticism is often a tricky concept to reimagine, which leads to it losing impact in many ways. Here, Maite managed to curate it ever so beautifully. However, there were moments when this discipline seemed to slip. In some of the looks, the assemblage of prints, embellishments, and accessories was competitive rather than complementary. What could have been perceived as sophisticated eclecticism was sometimes pushed into visual noise, and this was counterintuitive to the very aim of the collection – refined bohemia.
Another interesting view to consider is one concerning identity. The focus on bohemian elements was stark and clear as day. But the sophisticated aspects felt less consistently defined throughout the collection. While sometimes it was in the tailoring, other times it was in the silhouette. On further observation, one would find it blurring in – was it the colours which were mostly neutrals with a touch of fall hues, styling, or was it more of an intention rather than a clear element? To that end, the collection oscillated between expressive and elevated, sometimes without a clear definition, perhaps opening it up for free interpretation.
Nevertheless, Maite’s ambition to curate the neo version of bohemia is commendable. Refining the theme and curating something more mature and city-ready requires incredible precision and purposeful restraint. Distinguishing between what to hold back and what to accentuate is not for the bog standard, and Maite proved that this indeed was possible.
Ultimately, the collection delivers bohemia, more as a method than a mood. And the art of the theme traversing discipline and sophistication offers something for budding designers to spin.
An introverted personal stylist and writer, Bhagya has a flair for dissecting runway looks and translating them for real life. When she’s not analyzing colors, silhouettes and putting together OOTDs, she spends time reading, shopping, and taking care of her little fur-gang.
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