Leatheracci is a brand built on music, attitude, and individuality. The New York-based label creates handmade leather pieces with a rock ‘n’ roll vibe. I spoke with Denise Fiacco, who co-founded Leatheracci with the late Calvin Durham. “I met Calvin by chance on the street in New York,” Denise recalls. “He was a vendor, and my husband and I wanted to help revive his brand. Calvin had been making pieces since 1968, and musicians were already seeking him out.”
Calvin started as a hair and makeup artist in New York, where he became friends with designers like Halston. Denise explains, “He began making leather and denim pieces for himself. Musicians at Steve Paul’s The Scene, including Jimi Hendrix, Jim Morrison, The Rolling Stones, Bootsy Collins, and George Clinton, started coming to him for edgy, handcrafted garments.” In the 1970s, Calvin also had a store on Madison Avenue called “Love Creations by Calvin.”
Denise studied fine art at Parsons School of Design in New York, which helped shape her artistic approach at Leatheracci. Her long-standing interest in fashion began earlier, when she worked as a student at Charivari Workshop and later at Charivari 57 as the main cashier. Charivari was a legendary New York boutique known for championing avant‑garde and international designers. Since then, she has been moving the brand forward. “I start with a drawing, make the pattern, then bring the piece to life by hand. I’m also using materials Calvin left behind to create new designs. Every garment is unique, and every piece tells a story.”
The Rock 'n' Roll Western
“What sets us apart from other brands is the 70s Western influence that Calvin started. We have this rock ‘n’ roll Western vibe that’s truly unique to our brand.” She admits that growing the label is not easy. “The biggest challenge for me is attracting customers and generating interest. It takes a lot of time and energy, along with careful thought about where to invest money to see a return. I’ve never formally worked in fashion, but I’ve always been interested in it since I worked at my grandmother’s children’s clothing store when I was a child.”
The store was called Picone’s, located in Peekskill, New York. It specialized in children’s clothing, and Denise’s grandmother allowed her to accompany her on buying trips. Denise also worked as an assistant manager at Morgane Le Faye before returning to school and embarking on her studies in chemical physics.
Finally, when it comes to her goals, Denise is clear. “What I’d like to accomplish through my work is to legitimize the brand so people can recognize it. But I want it to remain small and intimate, staying true to its roots.”
Every Leatheracci garment is handmade in New York. Denise wants each piece to make a statement and let the wearer feel like a rock star. The Leatheracci studio in New York also serves as a private showroom. “We have over 300 samples. Clients can come for fittings, try pieces on, or even borrow them. I want them to feel connected to the work. Even as the brand grows, I want it to stay personal and intimate. Therefore, we make sure the experience is as interactive as possible.”
Denise wants people to feel cool, confident, and sexy when they wear Leatheracci. With each design, she continues to honor the brand’s history while shaping its future.
Kiki Khairy recently earned a master's degree in fashion styling & communication from IED Madrid, following his undergraduate degree in Public Relations & Communication from EU Business School Barcelona. Now working as a fashion editor, Khairy's career path reflects his dedication to the fashion industry. Born in London and with roots in Egypt, his diverse background enriches his perspective, contributing to his success in the dynamic world of fashion.