Runway
Step away from the urgency of the traditional runway with Ernesto Naranjo’s "The Return – The Celebration." In an intimate, slow-fashion presentation, discover how the designer explores the delicate tension between sculptural structure and fluid movement. Inspired by the radical Gutai Movement and Ángela de la Cruz, explore a collection defined by elastic-infused tulle, closure-free garments, and a quiet, contained rebellion.
Updated 09:32 am EDT, March 22, 2026
Published 09:02 am EDT, March 21, 2026
Photo Courtesy: © IFEMA MADRID
Step away from the urgency of the traditional runway with Ernesto Naranjo’s "The Return – The Celebration." In an intimate, slow-fashion presentation, discover how the designer explores the delicate tension between sculptural structure and fluid movement. Inspired by the radical Gutai Movement and Ángela de la Cruz, explore a collection defined by elastic-infused tulle, closure-free garments, and a quiet, contained rebellion.
Updated 09:32 am EDT, March 22, 2026
Published 09:02 am EDT, March 21, 2026
Photo Courtesy: © IFEMA MADRID
Fashion cycles are often marked by urgency and spectacle. Ernesto Naranjo’s latest ensemble seemed to traverse the audacious contrast. It was a deliberate and rebellious exploration of slowness and distinct art forms, presented in a way that rejected the conventional runway format. It was an intimate presentation, and rightly so, because the designer himself reflected on the collection being a personal celebration.
“The Return – The Celebration” at its core is a purposeful delving into the relationship between movement and structure. Inspired by various revolutionary unconventional art forms emphasizing free expression, such as the radicalism of Ángela de la Cruz and the Japanese Gutai Movement, the collection screams defiance in a good way.
While Naranjo has been studying the delicate tension between movement vs structure for years, it was this season that the culmination felt more resolved; much like a scale finding its balance. It is clear in the way the brand has used soft and feminine fabrics like silk and tulle, manipulated with elastic frameworks to create garments that hold shape without the anticipated rigidity. The designer established a neo-narrative for couture by building inherently soft clothing that, in appearance, is sculptural, yet moves with an almost effortless fluidity.
On the flip side, however, the attempt also feels carefully contained. The draped and knotted volume and elastic-infused structures beautifully translate the compelling narrative, but seem to stop just short of transcending anything unexpected or unusual. For a designer inspired by strong conceptual art forms, one would anticipate a bolder disruption.
An interesting detail worth pondering over about Naranjo’s construction techniques is the absence of defined closures. Once again, designed with free movement and expression as a theme, the designer insists on keeping his collection functional on a quieter level. This contrasts its visual drama, but also throws light on Naranjo’s purpose – designing for the lived experience. It only makes sense as his decision to showcase an intimate presentation already set the tone – he isn’t one to chase attention.
From a visual perspective, one may find a distinct theme of romance with fabrics like tulle and elements like drapes. However, a deeper look would reveal the designer’s unmistakable attempt to resist the cliché. Delicately draped pinks, yellows, and sage, layers of tulle, knotted fabrics, and smooth gradients suggest softness, but the bold shapes, boxy sleeves, and structural silhouettes prevent the collection from dissolving completely into delicacy. Perhaps this is where the references to movement-based art shine brightest: in the way the garments respond to the body rather than limit it.
While Naranjo intentionally stepped away from the conventional performative format of runway shows in keeping with his moment of personal celebration – “the return”, this restraint also limits the designer’s creative impact on the industry. His pieces are nuanced and carry an acquired taste that would inevitably take time and proximity to trickle down. This may take away from its power, considering the current fashion landscape that is more or less built on immediate visual impact.
Nevertheless, Ernesto Naranjo’s insistence on a slower approach feels refreshing in an industry that is addicted to speed. He seems to own his ways, which makes his journey towards finding a unique rhythm more promising for observers.
An introverted personal stylist and writer, Bhagya has a flair for dissecting runway looks and translating them for real life. When she’s not analyzing colors, silhouettes and putting together OOTDs, she spends time reading, shopping, and taking care of her little fur-gang.
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