Runway
How the iconic brand, known for its "Customania" and graphic-heavy designs, paid tribute to its past while focusing on themes of freedom and resilience.
Updated 09:43 am EDT, September 20, 2025
Published 09:29 am EDT, September 20, 2025
Photo Courtesy: © IFEMA MADRID
If you lived through the 2000s, you simply couldn’t have escaped “Customania.” Neither did Beyoncé, Miranda from Sex and the City, Julia Roberts in Runaway Bride, or Phoebe Buffay from Friends.
This brand was born after a motorcycle trip across the U.S. in the 1980s, and even today it remains one of the most anticipated shows at New York Fashion Week. Custo Barcelona grew out of a Californian seed, inspired by the local surf culture. The Dalmau brothers, founders of the label, were drawn to graphic design as a form of artistic expression, and after this journey they shaped a collection that brought this passion to life on fabric, infused with every detail of their American inspiration.
Custo Barcelona 'Leave Her Alone' collection during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid - September 2025
Today, Custo is still, at least to me, a hidden gem within the MBFWM lineup; an oasis of color, experimentation, and playfulness that recharges not only fashion’s batteries but also the nostalgia tanks of those of us who still watch 90s shows and movies, imagining nothing has really changed that much…
“Leave her alone,” A tribute to freedom, was the brand’s proposal for this season, an opening statement that couldn’t have been more fitting. Boho dresses, airy silhouettes, and shades of white burst onto the runway to set the tone, while in the background two voices spoke about the weight of chasing your dream, of resisting, of not giving up despite the silence… It’s worth noting here that Custo Barcelona went bankrupt in 1996, only to make its debut as a guest label at NYFW in 1997.
Custo Barcelona 'Leave Her Alone' collection during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid - September 2025
This collection conveyed the brand’s spirit through signatures like iridescent hues, futuristic metallics, harem pants, and printed men’s T-shirts. There were bejeweled sandals that transported us straight back to Ibiza in the 2000s, and oversized blazers with shoulder pads big enough to carry the most dazzling girl at Studio 54. My personal favorite, without a doubt, was a men’s velvet “suit” in fuchsia print, breaking away from formality in the most elegant way possible.
Custo Barcelona 'Leave Her Alone' collection during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid - September 2025
With a progression of white, pink, bluish tones, green, brown, silver, and black, Custo Barcelona reminded us of the importance of expressing ourselves not only through shapes and textures, but also through that so-called “fearsome” thing: color.
Lucía holds a master’s degree in communication management, specializing in fashion and luxury marketing. With a profound appreciation for art, fashion, and history, she has discovered her vocation in fashion journalism. Currently, she dedicates her efforts to this field in her early twenties, residing in the dynamic city of Madrid.
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