Beyond Binary: Unravelling the Equation Between Gender and Fashion
Unlocking the equation between gender and fashion. Explore how societal shifts have influenced choices and self-expression.
Updated 09:15 pm EST, January 2, 2025
Published 01:56 pm EDT, August 26, 2024
Featuring RLM02
Producer: Mena Lombard
Fashion Stylist: Sindi Pérez
Jewelry: jewelsbydunn
Hair & Make-up Artist: Mario Nova @ Hello Beauty Concept
Models: Sandy Kacura @ The Walk Collective, Jaeden Lassiter, Franco Braghieri
Photography: Flávio Iryoda
Photography Assistant: Ismael Moreno
Special Thanks: Mario Braghieri, Vicky Parker
Beyond Binary: Unravelling the Equation Between Gender and Fashion
Unlocking the equation between gender and fashion. Explore how societal shifts have influenced choices and self-expression.
Updated 09:15 pm EST, January 2, 2025
Published 01:56 pm EDT, August 26, 2024
Featuring RLM02
Producer: Mena Lombard
Fashion Stylist: Sindi Pérez
Jewelry: jewelsbydunn
Hair & Make-up Artist: Mario Nova @ Hello Beauty Concept
Models: Sandy Kacura @ The Walk Collective, Jaeden Lassiter, Franco Braghieri
Photography: Flávio Iryoda
Photography Assistant: Ismael Moreno
Special Thanks: Mario Braghieri, Vicky Parker
Gender and Fashion: introduction
I vividly remember learning about equations when I was still in elementary school. Such a notion struck me as brilliant. Because of how my brain works, I love equations and what they provide: a foolproof opportunity to decode an unknown while achieving perfect balance. Equations are also the basis for developing steps to follow and instructions, which, again, is something my brain loves. Taking intricate concepts and translating them into a method and language that is understandable for everyone is at the core of the art of teaching… and writing articles about complex topics.
In the US, approximately 8 million adults under 30 identify as transgender or non-binary. In addition to that, nearly 50% of Gen Z shoppers have purchased fashion outside of their gender identity. These numbers are not just plain statistics; they clearly indicate that the lines between traditional gender norms and fashion are increasingly blurring. This change is not minor; it signifies a profound shift in how the younger generation perceives and expresses their identity through fashion.
Fashion and gender share a complex, intertwined relationship that has evolved significantly over time. Fashion has always been a reflection of who we are, and in that role, it expresses both our collective and individual identity. Furthermore, as a powerful form of self-expression, fashion also reflects and shapes societal norms and values regarding gender.
Understanding the relationship between fashion and gender is crucial because it highlights the intersection of personal identity, societal values, and economic trends. By analyzing this complex equation, we can appreciate how fashion serves as a mirror to our evolving understanding of gender and plays a pivotal role in shaping a more inclusive and expressive world.
"Were it not better, Because that I am more than common tall, That I did suit me all points like a man?"
Sex, gender and how it is expressed
In John Keat’s surprisingly subversive poem, “Lamia,” the protagonist is portrayed as a femme fatale. Nonetheless, Keat’s references to her dual nature of masculine and feminine characteristics have been one of the earliest discussions of gender role reversal. As the first quarter century looms, society seems to think that sexuality, gender, and its complications are a new idea, far from it.
The tragic tale of Lamia’s love is that of a mythical half-serpent, a half-female creature who desperately wishes to present herself as entirely female and find love. Lamia falls prey to social conventions when she changes her appearance to possess feminine beauty as a “weapon” that could help her win over Lycius, her passionate love. Yet, it is not that simple. Lamia possesses both the feminine advantage of conventional beauty and the traditionally male advantage of patriarchal knowledge.
Specifically, Lamia knows the truth of her gender fluidity, but she chooses to deceive her beloved instead of revealing her proper form to him. Lamia’s worth and reality as a character is determined by the effort others put into understanding her complexity. Not so different from today. Gender has been a topic of complex discussion for centuries, and yet it is only today that it leads as an issue in the culture wars.
Fashion is an inevitable partner in this discussion. Gender and fashion have been conjoined twins since women and men started to differentiate themselves from the filthy masses through clothes and supercilious attitudes. What has entered more recently into the sartorial mélange are the forces of sex, gender, and gender expression.
Beyond Binary: Gender and Fashion featuring RLM02
Our society adores labeling people, but the conversation has become hideously complex. To speak of someone’s sexuality is only a fraction of the modern discussion when, in actuality, there are three aspects to gender.
- Sex refers to the biological and physiological characteristics defining humans as female or male. As much as some people wish to deny it, men and women have an intimate relationship with their vaginas or penises viewed from a purely physical lens.
- Gender refers to the socially constructed characteristics of women and men. This includes behaviors and roles associated with being a woman or man and their relationships. As a social construct, gender varies from society to society and can change over time.
- Gender Expression refers to how a person publicly presents their gender. Expression includes internal and outward appearances, such as dress, hair, makeup, body language, and voice. A person may present themselves as male, female, or nonbinary.
The fashion industry has decided to focus on these complexities and demonstrate its support of creativity and originality through clothes that support the broad spectrum of arguments. Fashion tries to rise above the controversies in our societal culture wars. Most recently, the fashion industry has championed gender-fluid fashion as proof of its surpassing the trivial arguments of what defines a man or a woman. But there is a cynical and sly point of view that identifies the gender-fluid trend as a fad that quickly satiates the masses today. And can be ignored with impunity as time passes. Or perhaps cynicism is wrong, and gender fluidity in fashion is a permanent shift?
Gender fashion through History
Gender fluidity in fashion has been a part of history, even though it may not have been treated head-on as a specific issue. Class and money played a part in how ancient world and medieval men and women dressed. Poor men and women from the fall of Rome to the 1800s wore the same rags. Diaries describe how difficult it was to differentiate between genders among the poverty-stricken.
On the contrary, rich men and women may have had the money to dress differently. Still, they shared many similar attributes in cosmetics and clothing. Historical fashion shows that men and women wore identical tops varying in length of tunics and codpieces.
Beyond Binary: Gender and Fashion featuring RLM02
There was a significant turning point in the West when trousers started being used. Before the rise of the domination of Ancient Greece and Rome, Eastern societies used trousers, which were likely to assist in horseback riding. Ironically, ceramics and paintings indicate that both men and women used them.
But the Ancient West guffawed at such exotic sack-like oddities and decried their use, instead clinging to their flowing robes and togas. Nonetheless, after the fall of Rome, men again started to wear trousers as early as the 4th century, although they were more akin to modern-day tights and form-fitting yoga pants with footies.
The use of trousers as a differentiator in sexual fashion was exacerbated in the early 19th century, as gender roles became more defined due to industrialization. One clear example of this shift is how skirts have disappeared over the past century from men’s wardrobes. In fact, up until the 19th century, the skirt wasn’t a garment that only women were supposed to wear. On the contrary, it had been part of the male outfit in Medieval and Renaissance Europe.
Yet today, with more people, specifically younger generations, coming out as non-binary, transgender, and other identities, the fashion scene has already begun to change. Fashion has the potential to hurt or support these new trends in our society. Critics of the trend argue that the fashion industry is marketing off a social contagion that could irreparably harm society’s functions.
Fashion is a supporter of diversity and a language to express ourselves
I have said it before, and I repeat it: fashion has been the ever-present, brutally honest, part-witness, part-player sidekick that has been telling our story since its very beginning. As our everlasting companion, fashion has been more than just clothing. It is a language that communicates who we are, how we feel, and what we stand for. Moreover, it is also a driving force for change.
By breaking away from conventional norms, fashion allows individuals to explore and express their true gender identities. It offers individuals a way to articulate their personal narratives and explore different facets of who they are. As a way of self-expression, fashion transcends aesthetics and embodies cultural narratives, pushing progressive ideas forward.
The fashion industry’s engagement with gender fluidity is a testament to its role as a cultural influencer. Traditionally, fashion has been a stronghold of gender norms, dictating distinct styles for men and women. However, contemporary fashion increasingly challenges these conventions, promoting inclusivity and the acceptance of diverse gender identities. This shift is evident in the rise of gender-neutral collections, unisex clothing lines, and the growing visibility of transgender and non-binary models on runways and editorials.
Beyond Binary: Gender and Fashion featuring RLM02
By normalizing diverse representations of gender, fashion helps to erode stigmas and stereotypes associated with non-conforming identities. High-profile designers and brands that advocate for inclusivity and gender fluidity play a crucial role in shaping public perception and encouraging acceptance. When a major fashion house showcases a gender-fluid collection, it sends a powerful message about the normalcy and beauty of diverse gender expressions, influencing consumers and the media alike.
As if all of this were not enough, fashion also serves as a bridge between different cultural moments, linking past struggles with contemporary movements. The current embrace of gender fluidity in fashion can be seen as a continuation of past efforts to challenge restrictive norms. Today’s fashion keeps the legacy of social growth and evolution by supporting the ongoing fight for gender inclusivity and equality. Through its influence, fashion fosters an environment where all individuals can express their true selves freely and confidently, paving the way for a more inclusive and equitable world.
Fashion uses gender as a Marketing ploy since there is no money in it
One can stand in the shade during the sun-drenched humid streets of summer and watch as the slowly moving herd passes by. People typically wear shorts in a spectacular array of colors to escape the prickling heat, from deep navy and soothing beige to icy white. All paired with sweat-soaked t-shirts clinging to torsos and, at times, providing a glimpse of hard muscles with flat stomachs.
But mostly, one notices the soggy fat rolls and heat-driven misery. Yet although everyone, men and women, were wearing the same category of garments, at no time could anyone mistake the crowd’s gender or celebrate that Cisnormative lifestyles were dead. Fashion uses gender as a marketing ploy but still maintains clear divisions between sexes and genders no matter what fashion claims.
Fashions’ amorous adoption of gender equality and the denial of sexual identity is a farce. It is a cynical attempt to stay aligned with the latest desire to correct past bigotry while taking the opportunity to self-congratulate itself for being broad-minded. There is no denying that a tiny percentage of the global public feels the need to claim a gender different from their birth sex and gloriously wear clothes of any gender.
Perhaps it does increase creativity and freedom and allows us to let go of a discredited paternalistic past. Yet, there is no parallel universe or dimension where I would feel unbridled joy at wearing a skirt and a princess-cut crop top. I’d still look like a deranged hobo who got dressed in a garbage-laden alley. And the fashion industry knows that the vast majority of men on this planet feel similar disdain at gender-neutral pussy-bow blouses for men.
Beyond Binary: Gender and Fashion featuring RLM02
There is no significant demand for this type of clothes, and the world, like it or not, revolves around the simplicity of supply and demand. Modern socialists, capitalists, and fascists all follow the golden rule of creating profitable products that people want. Regardless of who owns the means of production, there is no financially viable market for gender-neutral clothes.
So why are so many fashion designers creating and proudly preening their gender-neutral runway collections? It revolves around our culture wars that intensified post-September 11th and the poisonous words batted about against what constitutes love and gender. The fashion industry, barring Hugo Boss in the 1930s and 1940s, rarely aligns itself with political movements. The industry sees itself as a lonely beacon of stylish light sighing fitfully amidst the turd-like atmosphere of contemporary economic, pandemic, and military failures. Against these dire tidings, of course, fashion wants to embrace transgender causes.
On the one hand, fashion sees a tsunami of people barely engaged in the politics of life and certainly confused about who is being insulted in the culture wars. While on the other side, the industry faces a frenetic lathering mob of trans-activists screaming “transphobia” at the slightest deviation from their teachings. I am reminded of the Chinese cultural revolution, where self-selected interpreters’ cultural philosophy imposed their views while torturing the rest into submission. The fashion industry has responded by proclaiming that gender-neutral fashion and ecological sustainability will be its holy duty and damn the consequences.
Beyond Binary: Gender and Fashion featuring RLM02
Don’t misunderstand me; I am a sucker for gem-laden bracelets and floral prints. I have also been known to wear my mother’s vintage Hermes scarves. At a tragic event, I even wore a vintage Dana Bachman sweater that my mother erroneously bought in a woman’s American size 48 since the number four was obscured on the label.
Yes, everyone stared at me in dumbstruck wonder, and yes, they all asked if I meant to look like a middle-aged woman channeling the 90s. I did not care because frankly? I felt pretty. And that’s the point: most reasonable people celebrate the freedom to wear whatever clothes make them feel powerful or protected. But can we accept the ordained idea that society has turned a shadowy corner and we financially support wearing the same clothes as our sister?
Future of fashion and gender
The future of fashion will be an exciting and transformative journey, particularly in how it intersects with gender. As we move forward, the industry is set to become more inclusive, diverse, and sustainable, breaking away from traditional norms and embracing a more fluid approach to gender identity and expression. One of the most promising aspects of this future is the potential for unisex and gender-neutral clothing to reduce environmental impact.
By eliminating the need for separate clothing lines for men and women, the fashion industry can significantly reduce waste and pollution. Unisex clothing lines mean fewer collections to design, produce, and distribute, which can reduce resource consumption and a smaller carbon footprint. This shift not only benefits the environment but also aligns with the growing consumer demand for sustainable and ethical fashion practices. Gen Z plays a crucial role in driving this change.
As the most diverse and socially conscious generation, they are pushing the boundaries of what is considered acceptable and desirable. Gen Z’s influence is evident in their preference for brands that prioritize inclusivity and sustainability. They are not just a niche market; their values and purchasing power reshape the industry. Gender neutrality in fashion is becoming mainstream, thanks to their advocacy and choices.
Beyond Binary: Gender and Fashion featuring RLM02
However, the future of fashion is not about erasing the desire for traditionally gendered clothing. Many women still love wearing gorgeous gowns, and many men enjoy classic tailored suits. Fashion’s future will accommodate traditional and innovative preferences, ensuring that all tastes are celebrated and respected.
In the realm of balancing the fashion and gender equation, it is important to note that such a search for equality must challenge both conservative and progressive ideologies. This means that the future of fashion will not be confined to rigid definitions. Conservatives might argue that traditional gender roles in fashion should be preserved, while progressives may push for a complete abandonment of gender distinctions. The reality, however, is likely to be a balanced approach that respects and incorporates elements from both perspectives.
The beauty of the future lies in its inclusivity—where traditional styles coexist with gender-fluid fashion. The aim is to provide everyone with the freedom to choose what best expresses their identity. Nothing less, nothing more. This future will be able to promise all of us a fashion industry that not only celebrates diversity and inclusivity but also leads the way in sustainability and ethical practices. This dynamic and progressive future is essential, not just for the industry but for society as a whole, as it reflects our collective journey towards a more inclusive and equitable world.
It’s a niche and will stay that way
Gender-neutral clothes will subsume quietly like skinny jeans, only to be brought back to the fore when the fashion industry needs another fix of controversy and self-serving inclusive talking points, which is not to say that the debates between sex, gender, and gender expression will disappear. It has only been 2015 since gay marriage was legalized, and frankly, only a couple of years prior, the vox populi was still having kittens at the thought of two men or women kissing in public.
The FBI reported 1,200 hate crimes against the LGBQT community in 2015, which was not altogether different from the number in 2010. Nonetheless, based on PEW research and European government studies, there is a broad acceptance of the transgender community, which is in significant part driving the gender-neutral clothing debate. Reviewing the statistics, it is striking to note that negative attitudes towards trans people are not driven by fear but instead by the speed of formal acceptance in medical and governmental bodies.
In other words, women aren’t afraid of an MTF trans person using the same bathroom. However, significant resistance exists to using public money to support medical transition and enforce anti-discrimination laws. Based on historical acceptance of garden variety gays, the trans community, which at times walks alone without the rest of the LGQBT community on the road to acceptance, will eventually get their desires. But gender-neutral clothes?
The expression “a seismic shift” is regularly employed in media to explain the accelerating gender-neutral trend in the fashion industry. A growing number of fashion brands are trying to reframe their narratives to attract fresh clientele from Generation Z and Millennials, who are perceived as the most critical retail consumers, accounting for $143 billion in spending in the next four years.
Beyond Binary: Gender and Fashion featuring RLM02
The latest seasons have seen luxury brands like Gucci, Vuitton, and Saint Laurent combining menswear and womenswear runway shows. Meanwhile, fast-fashion labels such as Zara started releasing ungendered collections with models of both sexes dressed in the same clothes.
The rationale behind gender-bending is not just about being fashion-forward and creative. These gender-neutral collections receive much more media attention and are a way for fashion houses to bend over backward to please the 38% of Gen Z who assert that gender no longer defines a person. Gender-neutral initiatives are used by fashion houses to navigate the severe social media crises triggered by outbursts of moral judgment. These silly, inane discussions can be used as moral judgments against fashion houses, precisely what brands want to avoid.
Fashion brands wish to believe they are arbiters of cultural and social identity. But this is a double-edged sword since they are also susceptible to the madness of social network judgments and controversies. Fashion brands regularly face allegations relating to sexism, racism, harassment, environmental harm, and worker exploitation. Gender is a topic they can suborn.
There is an absolute right to have the freedom to choose any clothing that best represents our true selves. We deserve to wear what makes us feel most comfortable, in whatever form or fashion that may take. But does it make a profit? The answer is no. But? Brands continue to create gender-neutral collections that will likely stay a niche. However, one aspect that could benefit all clothes financially is the idea of fit or size. Today, we still find that high-end brands focus solely on the starving and the skinny. To make more money and still be socially conscious, brands should focus on making clothes that fit all sizes of people. Focusing on gender-neutral clothes is a fad and desired profits will throw them in the dustbin of history.
Solving the equation
Solving the complex equation of fashion and gender requires continued acceptance and celebration of differing ways of expression and art. As we embrace gender-neutral clothing, we acknowledge that these changes do not harm anyone; instead, they enrich our world and propel the fashion industry toward a brighter, more inclusive future.
If we deny this inclusivity, we are denying everyone the right to express who they are freely. The danger of suppressing self-expression in fashion is profound. It goes deeper than economic damage to the fashion industry; it strikes at the core of personal identity and societal progress. When individuals cannot express their true selves, it can lead to a sense of isolation, decreased mental well-being, and a loss of cultural richness.
Denying individuals the ability to express their gender identity through clothing can lead to a stifling of creativity, a loss of personal freedom, and a reinforcement of harmful stereotypes. It can contribute to the marginalization of those who do not conform to traditional gender norms, fostering an environment of exclusion and discrimination. Fashion, as a mirror of society, must reflect the diverse and evolving nature of human identity.
Beyond Binary: Gender and Fashion featuring RLM02
Gender-neutral clothing lines signify progress in our societal norms and values. The fashion industry’s move towards inclusivity should be applauded, as it not only meets the needs of the younger generations but also paves the way for a more accepting and diverse society. By fostering a culture of acceptance and creativity, we can make the world a better place for everyone. This commitment to diversity and self-expression is essential not only for the fashion industry but for the advancement of society as a whole. Together, we can ensure that fashion remains a powerful force for positive change, reflecting the beauty and complexity of human identity in all its forms.
The future of our society, in general, and of fashion, in particular, lies in its ability to adapt and embrace diversity. By supporting gender-neutral clothing and celebrating creative expression, we can create a world where everyone feels seen, respected, and valued. The younger generations lead the charge, demanding their identities be recognized and respected. As we continue to solve the equation of fashion and gender, we must ensure that our approach is inclusive, thoughtful, and progressive. If inclusivity equals acceptance and creativity equals progress, then the future of fashion and society will undoubtedly be brighter, harmonious, and balanced.
Fashion Designer and Professor, Mena believes that fashion completely transcends the surface and the most important is how one feels rather than anything else. Fashion is really about how empowered one becomes by it. She channels vibrant flares of vintage fashion and dreams of contemporary twists, inspired by her own life and travels.
Recovering from an obsession with Italian-designed menswear, Alfonso decided to take a deeper look into women’s fashion to see how our relationship among clothing, society, and business has changed. Educated as an economist with an MBA, he travels between Chicago, Miami, and Mexico on a search to see what happens next to fashion.
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